Remove the two screws securing the console to the cabinet. On older units the screws are concealed by décor end caps which can be popped off by pulling the top of the piece toward you. On newer units the screws are exposed in the back at the base of the console.
Once the screws are removed, pull the base of the console toward you and flip up and back.Step 4Step 3
You’ll notice a three wire connector at the top right of the cabinet. This is the connector for your lid switch. Disengage the connector by lifting outward on the plastic tab in order to release the top half of the connector from the bottom half. Pull upwards to separate the connectors. There is no need to disconnect the power cord connector usually located just behind the lid switch. Step 6Step 5
You will notice two brass colored wavy clips on each side of the cabinet. These clips hold the cabinet to the frame. Take a medium sized flat headed screw driver and insert down into the front of the clip. Slowly push the screwdriver backwards and the clip will pop loose. Once both clips are removed you can now remove the cabinet. Grasp cabinet at top on both sides and slowly pull and tilt forward gently lifting up to remove from base of Step 7frame. Set aside carefully as the cabinet is very flimsy once removed.
Using a flat blade screwdriver remove the two clips securing the drain pump ( 3363394 OR 3363892 INCLUDING CHCK VALVE) to the motor and rotate the pump to the left out of the way being careful not to loosen tub to pump and drain hose.
Remove the wiring harness connector from the motor. Step 8AStep 8
If a capacitor is attached to the motor remove (USE CAUTION AS THE CAPACITOR USUALLY RETAINS A HIGH VOLTAGE CHARGE) the two red wires from the capacitor carefully as not to touch the capacitor You can discharge the capacitor by grounding the two terminals together with a well insulated screwdriver.(DO NOT LET YOUR HANDS/BODY TOUCH ANY METAL PART OF THE SCREWDRIVER WHILE DISCHARStep 10Step 9GING)
Clips are also securing the motor to the transmission assembly. Remove the screws securing these clips using a ¼ or 5/16 inch nut driver.
Pry off the bottom motor clip first then slightly lift up on the motor to easily disengage the top clip. Continue holding motor and pull out and lower motor to the floor. (USE WORK PAD TO AVOID SRATCHING FLOOR)
Remove the plastic part of the coupling by carefully prying piece off of motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver. Next, remove the opposite Step 11piece off the transmission shaft. (HINT) Rotate shaft and pry a little, rotate some more, pry a little and continue this procedure until removed. NOTE: The older direct drive models came with a round plastic coupling where the newer models come equipped with a triangular plastic piece. The older models usually wore the black or creamed colored insert out before breaking the teeth off the plastic pieces. The newer models seldom ware out the black or dark colored round insert. The triangular plastic pieces usually break around the motor or transmission shaft or waller out around the motor shaft. Step 12
For this procedure you will need a deep well ½ inch socket, a 12 inch extension and small hammer. Install the new coupling drive onto the motor shaft. The inside flat surface of the coupling should be flush with the flat surface of the end of the motor shaft. Using the socket gently tap the coupling a little and rotate then tap a little more. Repeat this procedure until the tip of the motor shaft is flush as 12Amentioned above. (Be careful not to use excessive force when tapping the plastic coupling onto the shaft or drive coupling too far onto the shaft as it could break the coupling. This is especially true for the newer couplings that have a metal insert built into the coupling.) Repeat this procedure on the transmission shaft.
Place rubber insert onto the plastic coupling on the transmission. Rotate the rubber insert where one of the tear drop openings is at the 12:00Step 13BStep 13AStep 13 (straight up) position. Now rotate the plastic piece on the motor where one of the three teeth is at the 12:00 (straight up) position. The idea is to align the plastic piece on the motor to the rubber insert positioned on the transmission coupling. Verify that the motor isolators (RUBBER GROMMETS) are all on the motor. There should be four of them. Now lift the motor and carefully position the motor so the pieces of the coupling mesh together. (Do not fret if at first you don’t succeed: Pull motor down, realign and try again. I’ve done this for 12 years and still don’t make it on the first try all the time.) Once aligned and motor is in place keep motor steady and proceed to next step.
Position top motor retaining clip and slightly lift up on the motor (NOT TOO MUCH) while pulling down on top clip to snap into position. Put bottom clip on and while holding the motor steady push up on bottom clip to snap into place. The retaining screws do not have to be replaced, but I recommenStep 15BStep 15AStep 15Step 14d reinstalling them. Reinstall the wiring harness connector and capacitor wires.
Reinstall the pump and the retaining clips. Be sure to align flat area of pump with the flats of the motor shaft.
Reinstall the cabinet taking note of the four upright ears on the bottom of the frame support and the four slots in the bottom of tStep 16BStep 16Ahe cabinet. These must align when putting the cabinet back into placStep 16e. Place the front of the cabinet at the base of the frame support while tilting the cabinet back toward you. Work the front of the cabinet under up and onto the bottom of the frame and gently tilt the cabinet toward the back of the unit making sure to align the ears on the frame into the slots on the cabinet. Step 17Step 16EStep 16DStep 16C
Reinstall the curvy cabinet retainers and reconnect the lid switch.
NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO CHECK YOUR CLEAR PLASTIC PRESSURE SWITCH HOSE MAKING SURE IT IS NOT PINCHED AND THAT IT IS SECURELY ATTACHED TO THE PRESSURE SWITCH. If the pressure switch hose is pinched or comes off your washer could overfill flooding your house. Step 18AStep 18
Rotate the console back into position and reinstall the screws and décor pieces if yours had them.
That’s it. You are done. Test your washer through all cycles ( FILL, DRAIN, SPIN ) to verify correct operation. A good technician will do a complete test even though only one part was replaced.Step 19